*,*::before,*::after{box-sizing:border-box;margin:0;padding:0}
html{scroll-behavior:smooth}
:root{--navy:#071E37;--slate:#3F4E5E;--cream:#E6DDDA;--off:#EFEFEF;--white:#fff;--gold:#C2A46B}
body{background:var(--white);color:var(--navy);font-family:'Arimo',sans-serif;font-size:16px;line-height:1.75;overflow-x:hidden;-webkit-font-smoothing:antialiased}

/* TICKER */
.ticker-bar{background:var(--gold);padding:7px 0;overflow:hidden;white-space:nowrap}
.ticker-inner{display:inline-flex;animation:ticker 40s linear infinite}
.ticker-inner span,.ticker-inner a{font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:10px;font-weight:500;letter-spacing:.18em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--navy);padding:0 36px;text-decoration:none;display:inline-block}
.ticker-inner a:hover{opacity:.7}
.ticker-inner span::after{content:'·';margin-left:36px;opacity:.4}
@keyframes ticker{0%{transform:translateX(0)}100%{transform:translateX(-50%)}}

/* NAV */
.site-nav{background:var(--navy);position:sticky;top:0;z-index:200;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(230,221,218,.08)}
.nav-inner{max-width:1320px;margin:0 auto;padding:0 40px;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr auto 1fr;align-items:center;height:64px}
.nav-l,.nav-r{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:32px}
.nav-r{justify-content:flex-end}
.nav-l a,.nav-r a{font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:10px;font-weight:500;letter-spacing:.18em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--cream);text-decoration:none;opacity:.55;transition:opacity .2s}
.nav-l a:hover,.nav-r a:hover,.nav-l a.active,.nav-r a.active{opacity:1}
.nav-logo{display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:center;gap:3px;text-decoration:none}
.nav-wm{font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:13px;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.22em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--cream)}
.nav-sub{font-family:'Cormorant Garamond',serif;font-size:9px;font-style:italic;color:var(--gold);letter-spacing:.08em;opacity:.8}
.nav-cta{background:var(--gold)!important;color:var(--navy)!important;opacity:1!important;padding:8px 18px!important;border-radius:1px;font-weight:600!important}

/* SHARED LAYOUT */
.wrap{max-width:1320px;margin:0 auto;padding:0 40px}
.sp{padding:72px 0}
.sp-sm{padding:56px 0}
.sec-hd{display:flex;align-items:baseline;justify-content:space-between;margin-bottom:36px;padding-bottom:16px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--cream)}
.sec-lbl{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:14px}
.sec-lbl-t{font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.25em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--navy)}
.sec-lbl-n{font-family:'Cormorant Garamond',serif;font-size:12px;font-style:italic;color:var(--slate);opacity:.4}
.see-all{font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.2em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--slate);text-decoration:none;opacity:.5;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:6px;transition:opacity .2s,gap .2s}
.see-all:hover{opacity:.9;gap:10px}
.arr{fill:none;stroke:currentColor;stroke-width:1;stroke-linecap:round;stroke-linejoin:round}

/* PAGE HERO (inner pages) */
.page-hero{background:var(--navy);padding:64px 40px 56px}
.page-hero-in{max-width:1320px;margin:0 auto}
.page-hero-tag{font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.25em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--gold);opacity:.8;margin-bottom:14px}
.page-hero-h{font-family:'Cormorant Garamond',serif;font-size:clamp(36px,4vw,58px);font-weight:500;color:var(--off);line-height:1.1;margin-bottom:12px}
.page-hero-sub{font-family:'Cormorant Garamond',serif;font-size:18px;font-style:italic;color:var(--cream);opacity:.65;max-width:600px}

/* CARD IMAGES */
.card-img{width:100%;position:relative;overflow:hidden}
.card-img-16{aspect-ratio:16/9}
.card-img-43{aspect-ratio:4/3}
.card-img-34{aspect-ratio:3/4}
.bg-dark{background:linear-gradient(135deg,#0d2e4a,#1a3a52,#071E37)}
.bg-warm{background:linear-gradient(135deg,#1a0a04,#3d1f0d,#2a1208)}
.bg-mid{background:linear-gradient(135deg,#071e37,#1a3052,#0f2640)}
.bg-green{background:linear-gradient(135deg,#0f2c1e,#1a3d2a,#0a2018)}
.bg-stone{background:linear-gradient(135deg,#2a2018,#3d3020,#1e1810)}
.img-zoom{width:100%;height:100%;transition:transform .45s ease}
.card-hover:hover .img-zoom{transform:scale(1.05)}

/* NEWS CARDS */
.news-cat{font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.22em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--gold);margin-bottom:8px}
.news-title{font-family:'Cormorant Garamond',serif;font-size:clamp(20px,2vw,28px);font-weight:600;color:var(--navy);line-height:1.2;margin-bottom:10px}
.news-deck{font-size:14px;color:var(--slate);line-height:1.65;margin-bottom:16px}
.news-meta{font-family:'Jost',sans-serif;font-size:11px;color:var(--slate);opacity:.5;letter-spacing:.04em;display:flex;align-items:center;gap:10px}
.meta-dot{width:3px;height:3px;border-radius:50%;background:var(--slate);opacity:.3}

/* ARTICLE CARD GRID */
.article-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:32px}
.article-card{text-decoration:none;display:block}
.article-card:hover .img-zoom{transform:scale(1.05)}
.article-card .news-title{font-size:18px}

/* SIDEBAR */
.sidebar{display:flex;flex-direction:column}
.sidebar-item{padding:20px 0;border-bottom:1px solid var(--cream);text-decoration:none;display:block;transition:padding-left .2s}
.sidebar-item:first-child{border-top:1px solid var(--cream)}
.sidebar-item:hover{padding-left:8px}
.sb-cat{font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.2em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--gold);margin-bottom:5px}
.sb-title{font-family:'Cormorant Garamond',serif;font-size:17px;font-weight:500;color:var(--navy);line-height:1.3;margin-bottom:6px}
.sb-meta{font-family:'Jost',sans-serif;font-size:10px;color:var(--slate);opacity:.45}

/* STAT BAND */
.band{background:var(--navy);padding:56px 40px}
.band-in{max-width:1320px;margin:0 auto;display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 2px 1fr 2px 1fr;align-items:center}
.band-stat{padding:0 48px;text-align:center}
.band-stat:first-child{padding-left:0;text-align:left}
.band-stat:last-child{padding-right:0;text-align:right}
.band-n{font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:48px;font-weight:700;color:var(--cream);line-height:1;margin-bottom:8px}
.band-l{font-family:'Jost',sans-serif;font-size:12px;font-weight:300;color:var(--cream);opacity:.45;letter-spacing:.06em;line-height:1.4}
.band-vr{width:1px;height:60px;background:rgba(230,221,218,.12)}

/* FACTS */
.facts-sec{background:var(--navy)}
.facts-sec .sec-hd{border-bottom-color:rgba(230,221,218,.12)}
.facts-sec .sec-lbl-t{color:var(--cream)}
.facts-sec .sec-lbl-n,.facts-sec .see-all{color:var(--cream)}
.facts-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr);gap:2px;background:rgba(230,221,218,.06)}
.fact-card{background:var(--navy);padding:40px 36px;position:relative;overflow:hidden;text-decoration:none;display:block;transition:background .25s}
.fact-card:hover{background:rgba(63,78,94,.5)}
.fact-n{font-family:'Cormorant Garamond',serif;font-size:64px;font-weight:300;color:var(--cream);opacity:.07;position:absolute;top:16px;right:24px;line-height:1}
.fact-lbl{font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.2em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--gold);margin-bottom:14px}
.fact-h{font-family:'Cormorant Garamond',serif;font-size:22px;font-weight:500;color:var(--off);line-height:1.25;margin-bottom:10px}
.fact-b{font-size:14px;color:var(--cream);opacity:.65;line-height:1.65}
.fact-b strong{color:var(--cream);opacity:1;font-weight:500}

/* RESTAURANTS */
.rest-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:24px}
.rest-card{text-decoration:none;display:block;border:1px solid var(--cream);transition:border-color .2s,box-shadow .2s}
.rest-card:hover{border-color:rgba(7,30,55,.2);box-shadow:0 4px 24px rgba(7,30,55,.06)}
.rest-card:hover .img-zoom{transform:scale(1.05)}
.rest-body{padding:22px 20px}
.rest-city{font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.22em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--gold);margin-bottom:5px}
.rest-name{font-family:'Cormorant Garamond',serif;font-size:20px;font-weight:600;color:var(--navy);line-height:1.2;margin-bottom:6px}
.rest-tags{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:6px;margin-bottom:12px}
.tag{font-family:'Jost',sans-serif;font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.1em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--slate);background:var(--off);padding:4px 10px}
.tag-m{background:var(--navy);color:var(--gold)}
.rest-desc{font-size:13px;color:var(--slate);line-height:1.6;opacity:.8}

/* PREFECTURE CARDS */
.pref-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr);gap:16px}
.pref-card{background:var(--white);border:1px solid rgba(7,30,55,.07);padding:28px 24px;text-decoration:none;display:block;position:relative;transition:border-color .25s,transform .25s;overflow:hidden}
.pref-card::before{content:'';position:absolute;bottom:0;left:0;width:0;height:2px;background:var(--gold);transition:width .35s}
.pref-card:hover{border-color:rgba(7,30,55,.15);transform:translateY(-2px)}
.pref-card:hover::before{width:100%}
.pref-k{font-family:'Cormorant Garamond',serif;font-size:32px;font-weight:300;color:var(--navy);opacity:.12;position:absolute;top:12px;right:16px;line-height:1}
.pref-n{font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:14px;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.08em;color:var(--navy);text-transform:uppercase;margin-bottom:4px}
.pref-s{font-family:'Cormorant Garamond',serif;font-size:13px;font-style:italic;color:var(--slate);opacity:.6;margin-bottom:14px}
.pref-tag{display:inline-block;font-family:'Jost',sans-serif;font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.12em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--slate);background:var(--cream);padding:4px 10px;margin-bottom:12px}
.pref-desc{font-size:12px;color:var(--slate);line-height:1.6;opacity:.75}

/* GLOSSARY */
.gloss{background:var(--off);padding:48px 40px;overflow:hidden}
.gloss-t{font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.25em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--slate);opacity:.5;margin-bottom:24px;text-align:center}
.gloss-track{display:flex;overflow-x:auto;scrollbar-width:none}
.gloss-track::-webkit-scrollbar{display:none}
.gloss-term{flex:0 0 auto;border:1px solid rgba(7,30,55,.1);border-right:none;padding:20px 24px;min-width:200px;text-decoration:none;transition:background .2s;background:var(--white)}
.gloss-term:last-child{border-right:1px solid rgba(7,30,55,.1)}
.gloss-term:hover{background:var(--cream)}
.g-k{font-family:'Cormorant Garamond',serif;font-size:22px;color:var(--navy);opacity:.25;margin-bottom:4px}
.g-r{font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:12px;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.1em;color:var(--navy);text-transform:uppercase;margin-bottom:4px}
.g-d{font-size:12px;color:var(--slate);line-height:1.5;opacity:.7}

/* NEWSLETTER */
.nl-band{background:var(--cream);padding:72px 40px;text-align:center}
.nl-in{max-width:560px;margin:0 auto}
.nl-ey{font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.3em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--slate);opacity:.5;margin-bottom:16px}
.nl-h{font-family:'Cormorant Garamond',serif;font-size:clamp(28px,3vw,40px);font-weight:500;color:var(--navy);line-height:1.2;margin-bottom:14px}
.nl-sub{font-size:14px;color:var(--slate);opacity:.7;margin-bottom:32px;line-height:1.6}
.nl-form{display:flex;max-width:440px;margin:0 auto}
.nl-input{flex:1;border:1px solid rgba(7,30,55,.18);border-right:none;background:var(--white);padding:14px 18px;font-family:'Arimo',sans-serif;font-size:14px;color:var(--navy);outline:none}
.nl-input::placeholder{color:var(--slate);opacity:.4}
.nl-btn{background:var(--navy);color:var(--cream);border:1px solid var(--navy);padding:14px 24px;font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.2em;text-transform:uppercase;cursor:pointer;transition:background .2s}
.nl-btn:hover{background:var(--slate)}
.nl-note{margin-top:14px;font-size:11px;color:var(--slate);opacity:.4;font-style:italic}

/* VIDEO / WATCH */
.vid-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:24px}
.vid-card{text-decoration:none;display:block}
.vid-thumb{width:100%;aspect-ratio:16/9;position:relative;overflow:hidden;margin-bottom:14px}
.vid-card:hover .img-zoom{transform:scale(1.04)}
.play{position:absolute;top:50%;left:50%;transform:translate(-50%,-50%);width:48px;height:48px;background:rgba(230,221,218,.15);border:1px solid rgba(230,221,218,.3);border-radius:50%;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;transition:background .2s,transform .2s;z-index:2}
.vid-card:hover .play{background:rgba(194,164,107,.35);transform:translate(-50%,-50%) scale(1.1)}
.vid-dur{position:absolute;bottom:10px;right:12px;font-family:'Jost',sans-serif;font-size:10px;color:var(--cream);background:rgba(0,0,0,.6);padding:2px 7px;z-index:2}
.vid-cat{font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.2em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--gold);margin-bottom:5px}
.vid-title{font-family:'Cormorant Garamond',serif;font-size:17px;font-weight:500;color:var(--navy);line-height:1.3;margin-bottom:6px}
.vid-meta{font-size:11px;color:var(--slate);opacity:.45}

/* YOUTUBE EMBED */
.yt-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:24px}
.yt-wrap{position:relative;padding-bottom:56.25%;height:0;overflow:hidden;background:var(--navy);margin-bottom:14px}
.yt-wrap iframe{position:absolute;top:0;left:0;width:100%;height:100%;border:0}

/* INSTAGRAM GRID */
.ig-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(4,1fr);gap:3px}
.ig-card{aspect-ratio:1;position:relative;overflow:hidden;display:block;background:var(--navy)}
.ig-card:hover .img-zoom{transform:scale(1.08)}
.ig-ol{position:absolute;inset:0;background:rgba(7,30,55,0);transition:background .3s;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;z-index:2}
.ig-card:hover .ig-ol{background:rgba(7,30,55,.5)}
.ig-icon{opacity:0;transition:opacity .3s;color:var(--cream)}
.ig-card:hover .ig-icon{opacity:1}
.ig-handle{font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.15em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--slate);opacity:.5;margin-top:16px;text-align:center}
.ig-handle a{color:var(--slate);text-decoration:none;transition:opacity .2s}
.ig-handle a:hover{opacity:.9}

/* FOOTER */
.footer{background:var(--navy);padding:72px 40px 36px}
.footer-in{max-width:1320px;margin:0 auto}
.foot-top{display:grid;grid-template-columns:2fr 1fr 1fr 1fr;gap:48px;padding-bottom:48px;border-bottom:1px solid rgba(230,221,218,.08);margin-bottom:36px}
.foot-wm{font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:14px;font-weight:600;letter-spacing:.22em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--cream);margin-bottom:4px}
.foot-tag{font-family:'Cormorant Garamond',serif;font-size:13px;font-style:italic;color:var(--gold);opacity:.7;margin-bottom:20px}
.foot-p{font-size:13px;color:var(--cream);opacity:.4;line-height:1.7;max-width:280px;margin-bottom:20px}
.foot-social{display:flex;gap:14px}
.soc-link{font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.15em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--cream);opacity:.35;text-decoration:none;transition:opacity .2s}
.soc-link:hover{opacity:.8}
.foot-col-t{font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.22em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--cream);opacity:.35;margin-bottom:18px}
.foot-col a{display:block;font-size:13px;color:var(--cream);opacity:.55;text-decoration:none;margin-bottom:10px;transition:opacity .2s}
.foot-col a:hover{opacity:1}
.foot-bot{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center}
.foot-copy,.foot-lang{font-size:11px;color:var(--cream);opacity:.2}

/* ARTICLE BODY */
.article-wrap{max-width:740px;margin:0 auto;padding:64px 40px 80px}
.article-lede{font-family:'Cormorant Garamond',serif;font-size:clamp(18px,2vw,22px);line-height:1.6;color:var(--slate);margin-bottom:40px;padding-bottom:40px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--cream)}
.article-body p{margin-bottom:24px;font-size:17px;line-height:1.8;color:var(--navy)}
.article-body h2{font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.22em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--slate);margin:52px 0 20px;padding-top:52px;border-top:1px solid var(--cream)}
.article-body h3{font-family:'Cormorant Garamond',serif;font-size:26px;font-weight:600;color:var(--navy);margin:32px 0 16px;line-height:1.25}
.pull-quote{margin:48px 0;padding:32px 36px;background:var(--off);border-left:3px solid var(--navy)}
.pull-quote p{font-family:'Cormorant Garamond',serif;font-size:clamp(18px,2vw,24px);font-style:italic;color:var(--navy);line-height:1.45;margin:0}
.pull-quote cite{display:block;margin-top:12px;font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:9px;letter-spacing:.15em;color:var(--slate);opacity:.5;font-style:normal}
.callout-box{background:var(--navy);color:var(--cream);padding:32px 36px;margin:48px 0}
.callout-box .c-lbl{font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.22em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--gold);opacity:.8;margin-bottom:12px}
.callout-box h3{font-family:'Cormorant Garamond',serif;font-size:20px;color:var(--off);margin-bottom:12px}
.callout-box p{font-size:14px;color:var(--cream);opacity:.8;line-height:1.7;margin-bottom:12px}
.callout-box p:last-child{margin-bottom:0}

/* FILTER BAR */
.filter-bar{display:flex;gap:0;overflow-x:auto;scrollbar-width:none;border-bottom:1px solid var(--cream);margin-bottom:40px}
.filter-bar::-webkit-scrollbar{display:none}
.filter-btn{font-family:'Oswald',sans-serif;font-size:10px;letter-spacing:.18em;text-transform:uppercase;color:var(--slate);background:none;border:none;padding:14px 24px;cursor:pointer;opacity:.5;transition:opacity .2s,border-bottom .2s;border-bottom:2px solid transparent;white-space:nowrap}
.filter-btn:hover,.filter-btn.active{opacity:1;border-bottom:2px solid var(--gold);color:var(--navy)}

/* RESPONSIVE */
@media(max-width:1100px){
  .article-grid,.rest-grid,.yt-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}
  .pref-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr)}
  .facts-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}
  .ig-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr)}
  .foot-top{grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}
}
@media(max-width:768px){
  .nav-l,.nav-r{display:none}
  .band-in{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:32px}
  .band-vr{display:none}
  .band-stat{text-align:center!important;padding:0!important}
  .article-grid,.rest-grid,.yt-grid,.facts-grid,.pref-grid,.vid-grid,.ig-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}
  .foot-top{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:32px}
  .wrap,.article-wrap{padding:0 20px}
  .page-hero{padding:48px 20px 40px}
  .nl-band{padding:48px 20px}
  .band{padding:40px 20px}
  .gloss{padding:36px 20px}
}
</style>